Great Barrier – An island holiday close to home.
For a relaxing stress-free holiday, this is a great destination. From the moment you reach the departure point at Auckland Viaduct, you're instantly launched into holiday mode. The 4hr ferry trip to Great Barrier passes reasonably quickly as you tick off the islands in the Hauraki Gulf and skirt around the top of the Coromandel Peninsular.
Great Barrier is rugged and remote with a myriad of gorgeous bays and white sandy beaches, perfect for swimming, surfing, sea kayaking and fishing. The island has a rich history with the remains of old copper mines, whaling stations, saw mills, an old kauri dam and historic buildings. Over 50 ships have come to grief around the coastline, the most well- known ship wreck being the SS Wairarapa which smashed into rocks in 1894 with the loss of 121 passengers and crew. Two grave sites remain, one on each side of the island. We visited the site on the eastern side of the island, a gorgeous spot at the end of a lovely walk along Mabeys beach.
The island is a trampers paradise with a plethora of interesting short and overnight walks through forest covered ranges, wilderness areas, bush, waterfalls, spectacular bluffs, ridges, and tracks that follow old kauri logging and milling routes. Coastal walks will take you past tidal creeks and wetlands - a mecca for wading and seabirds. Birdlife is prolific and while extinct in many other parts of the country, the North Island Kaka, (a large brown parrot) can often be seen.
Great Barrier Forest in the middle of the island is a popular destination. Mount Hobson, the highest peak at 621m, is accessible from three tracks starting in the north, west and south, with varying degrees of difficulty. We started from the northern end near Port Fitzroy via the Kauri dam track, up to the summit of Mt Hobson, overnighting at the 20 bed Mount Heale Hut.
The Kauri Dam is very impressive, leaving you in awe of the knowledge and skills of our early settlers. I can only imagine that whoever wrote the brochure that said there were a few steps at the top, had never set foot on the track. The top section is pretty much all steps, (to protect black petrel nesting grounds), we didn't count them but seemed like over 1,000 - an amazing cardio workout. Despite being experienced trampers and having walked most of the Great Walks in NZ, this was one of the most strenuous stretches we've faced. We've had longer days, and more challenging terrain, but nothing quite as exhausting as these steps, so it was a huge relief to reach the top. The west facing Mt Heale Hut provides fantastic views over bays, beaches and surrounding islands and the sunsets are quite spectacular. The track back down via the South Fork and Kaiaraara Hut was much easier, not as steep and not many steps – a slightly longer distance, but taking less time. For those with a high degree of fitness, the 25km Aotea Track which loops around the central mountain area offers a challenging 2 -3 day experience.
There are a number of excellent DOC campsites, mainly along the east coast, plus a variety of huts, B& B's, backpackers, self-contained cottages and lodges, to cater for all budgets. We camped at Akapoua on the west coast near Port Fitzroy, a tidal area, so while not great for swimming, it enabled us to kayak the many bays and inlets in the large sheltered harbour.
The DOC camp at Harataonga Beach was our favourite spot on the east coast, with plenty of space, mature trees, undulating terrain and a couple of levels so it felt like we were on our own, despite a couple of other small groups. There were lots of wood pigeons around and a few North Island Kaka's perched in the trees above our tent. From the camp, you cross a warm stream, walk through a paddock, then re-cross the stream to arrive at a lovely beach. We could put the kayaks in the stream and paddle down to the beach when we wanted to brave the surf and head out to sea. It is a great beach for swimming with gnarly old pohutukawa trees providing welcome shade.
This camp is quite close to Windy Canyon, which is the shortest and easiest path to the summit of Mt Hobson. No, we didn't want to walk to the top again, we just wanted to experience the sheer rock faces through Windy Canyon getting enough height to enjoy splendid views over the eastern coastline.
Whangaparapara Bay on the western side of the island was our next stop. The Green Campsite, with no vehicle access and tidal, made access in our kayaks a little tricky, so we opted for a little comfort and luxury and checked into Great Barrier Lodge for our last two nights on the island. (We thoroughly enjoyed our stay here and the food was delicious, however the Lodge is currently closed).
A number of walking tracks in the Whangaparapara area lead to places of interest; Green Camp, an abandoned steam traction engine, and an old whaling station, although we paddled to these spots. Over the hill a 3hr walk from Bland Bay to the summit, was a chance to stretch our legs, and the views from the top are spectacular. From Whangaparapara Road, it's an easy 45minute walk through wetlands and kanuka forest to natural hot springs at Kaitoke Creek. Surrounded by ferns and bush it's a pretty spot to relax and enjoy a soak in the hot pools. Continue on this track and you will reach Mt Hobson via the southern route.
Crossing back to the east side of the island we visited Kaitoke Beach, then swum at the beautiful Medlands Beach, before heading over to Tryphena and up the coast to Schooner Bay for a picnic before catching the ferry back to Auckland. Calm seas on the voyage back, created ideal conditions to watch dolphins playing in the bow waves. And as probably only happens in NZ, the captain slowed down for one of the crew, fishing at the rear of the boat, to reel in a kingfish.
Great Barrier is a great holiday destination for those who love the outdoors. Keen to explore the whole island and with camping gear and kayaks, taking our car across on the ferry was the best option. However, with limited space for vehicles you do to need to book months in advance. However you don't have to take a vehicle as cars can be hired on the island, and a limited bus service operates. Flights from Auckland go daily and take around 30 minutes.


Pogies. When the weather gets chilly over the winter months, or you're paddling in the deep south when it can be cold at any time of the year, quality neoprene pogies will keep your hands toasty warm and dry. Velcro the pogies around the paddle shaft then simply slip your hands through to grip your paddle. The wide wrist opening makes it easy to get your hands in or out quickly.


When camping with access to the car, this 3 burner gas cooker is perfect. It even has a rack for cooking toast and the lid acts as a wind shield. The legs unscrew and it folds up into a tidy, compact unit. We have been using this cooker for over 20 years, so a pretty good investment. New models will no doubt have been modified and improved, but we have never had any issues with this one.


really basic, but don't buy two the same size and check that they fit inside each other to save space in your pack. Stainless steel, bullet proof coffee plungers, are a bonus when space is not an issue.


When bigger fold out chairs are not an option due to space or weight, but you don't fancy sitting on the ground all the time, these little beauties are just what you need. They take very little space and when kayaking fit up the pointy nose end especially well. We have had ours for quite a few years and have used them on frequent trips, so I can personally recommmend these Roamer Tri Stools. Available from Kathmandu, you can often pick them up for less than $20. Check them out
At some locations in NZ at certain times of the year, and certain times of the day (especially in Fiordland) sandflies or mosquito's can be a nuisance.



Air mattresses: Double and single styles available, perfect if you are camping close to your vehicle when weight and size not an issue. Lengthwise 185cm is a snug fit in our tent, however many of the new ones are 200 – 215 cm and will not fit in some compact dome tents. Many are also double the height, suitable only for large tents.
Stackable plastic cubes are fantastic to keep all related items together and the car stays nice & tidy. We can fit twelve boxes and access from back and rear doors means you only ever need to move one box to reach what you want.