Lake Waikaremoana is set in a remote region of natural, rugged beauty, ancient trees, giant podocarps, swirling mists and waterfalls. A spiritual place with a rich history.
Children of the Mist, a book written by Elsdon Best (first published in 1925), shares the history and traditions of the local Tuhoe people. Kayaking on the lake in the misty rain and fog over four days, the book title seemed wholly appropriate.
In 2014 as part of the Treaty of Waitangi Settlements, Te Urewera National Park and Lake Waikaremoana became a legal entity, and is now simply known as Te Urewera, belonging to all people with Tuhoe (the local Iwi) named as guardians.
One of New Zealand's Great Walks, the 46km track around the shoreline of the lake usually takes 4 - 5 days, although thanks to a water taxi service you can choose to walk just one or two sections if you prefer. The well-maintained track can be walked in either direction, depending on whether you want to start or end with the challenging Panekire Bluffs.
On day one you have energy to burn but your pack will be bulging with food; on the last day you might be tiring but your pack will be lighter having munched through several days' worth of food. At 1100m it is a steep hike but the views from the top are magnificent. Start at Onepoto Bay if you want to tackle Panekire on day one, otherwise start at Hopuruahine Landing. There are five huts and five campsites along the way, all must be booked in advance.
In addition to the walking track, the lake is a popular fishing destination. Beneath the lake lies a petrified forest and when the water is calm you can see tree trunks well below the surface. Don't miss the Onepoto Caves, two hours return, be sure to take a torch.
It's quite an adventure just getting here over the winding, narrow road with long stretches of gravel, so having made the effort it's worth staying a few days. Lake Waikaremoana Holiday Park situated on the shores of the lake have tent and powered sites, cabins, bunk rooms and self-contained units, details HERE
There are a number of shorter walks in the area through beautiful goblin like forests and bush, including the popular track to Lake Waikareiti.
For a more detailed description of the track and huts click HERE.
Most people walk independently however fully guided tours are offered by Ahurei Adventures
After booking the huts, I sustained a knee injury, so we kayaked around the lake meeting up with friends, who walked the track, at the huts each night.


Pogies. When the weather gets chilly over the winter months, or you're paddling in the deep south when it can be cold at any time of the year, quality neoprene pogies will keep your hands toasty warm and dry. Velcro the pogies around the paddle shaft then simply slip your hands through to grip your paddle. The wide wrist opening makes it easy to get your hands in or out quickly.


When camping with access to the car, this 3 burner gas cooker is perfect. It even has a rack for cooking toast and the lid acts as a wind shield. The legs unscrew and it folds up into a tidy, compact unit. We have been using this cooker for over 20 years, so a pretty good investment. New models will no doubt have been modified and improved, but we have never had any issues with this one.


really basic, but don't buy two the same size and check that they fit inside each other to save space in your pack. Stainless steel, bullet proof coffee plungers, are a bonus when space is not an issue.


When bigger fold out chairs are not an option due to space or weight, but you don't fancy sitting on the ground all the time, these little beauties are just what you need. They take very little space and when kayaking fit up the pointy nose end especially well. We have had ours for quite a few years and have used them on frequent trips, so I can personally recommmend these Roamer Tri Stools. Available from Kathmandu, you can often pick them up for less than $20. Check them out
At some locations in NZ at certain times of the year, and certain times of the day (especially in Fiordland) sandflies or mosquito's can be a nuisance.



Air mattresses: Double and single styles available, perfect if you are camping close to your vehicle when weight and size not an issue. Lengthwise 185cm is a snug fit in our tent, however many of the new ones are 200 – 215 cm and will not fit in some compact dome tents. Many are also double the height, suitable only for large tents.
Stackable plastic cubes are fantastic to keep all related items together and the car stays nice & tidy. We can fit twelve boxes and access from back and rear doors means you only ever need to move one box to reach what you want.