Urupukapuka Island
It is with some reluctance that I share details of this breath-taking location in the Bay of Islands as it is one of our favourite places in NZ. We have camped at Cable Bay on four separate occasions and it is just paradise. To avoid the busy period, we go in February or March and generally have this idyllic spot to ourselves. Occasionally one or two boats with a couple of fishermen have pulled up for a night, and on one trip a large group of kayakers arrive for a couple of nights, and then they were gone.
Urupukapuka is the biggest of the 144 islands in the Bay of Islands, and the only one where camping is permitted with three DoC camping areas: Urupukapuka Bay with 60 tent sites divided into four zones; Cable Bay 20 sites (The Doc Website mentions 80 tent sites, however if you continue reading you will see it's 20 sites with maximum of 80 people); and Sunset Bay with only 2 sites.
The DoC camps are basic with just a water supply and composting toilets, but string up your solar shower, in a nearby tree or in one of the little wooden cubicles, for a lovely hot shower at the end of each day - bliss!!!. And the price for this slice of paradise - just $13 per adult per night.
We stow all our camping gear and provisions in our kayaks on the water's edge at Rawhiti, and as this is also the starting point of the Cape Brett Walk, paddock parking is available for $5 per night. From here it's only a 30 minute paddle to the island. While close to the mainland, for the isolation, solitude and privacy afforded, you could be a million miles away.
Using Urupukapuka as a base, you can explore other islands in the area, swim, fish, snorkel and walk to your hearts content. With stunning bays and beautiful white sandy beaches in every direction, you are spoilt for choice, there is even a snorkel trail on Roberton Island. High tide is the best time when the lagoon fills with water and fish life is abundant. In calm conditions, you can swim through a narrow fissure to the more exposed outward side of the Island. However, be very careful as the rocks are sharp and don't attempt when there's a big swell as the water surges through the gap making it very dangerous.
On one occasion, we paddled out from Tapeka Point, just past Russell, which from memory took us about 3 hours. The trip out was fine, but paddling back at the end of our stay was pretty un-nerving. Even though we were on the water very early, the wind got up, and coupled with a reasonably large swell, conditions quickly deteriorated becoming rough and unpleasant. Our beach landing in big surf was downright scary, and certainly not pretty, so we were relieved our boats and bodies survived. Being much closer, paddling from Rawhiti is the safer option enabling a quick exit from the island if a tropical cyclone or adverse weather is forecast.
With so many islands grouped closely together, you can always find a sheltered bay, so it's a kayakers and boaties dream, however you don't need a boat to reach the island. Boat cruises depart every day in summer from Paihia and Russell to the "Hole in the Rock" a very popular tourist attraction at the end of Cape Brett Peninsular. Most stop at Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island, making this a viable holiday option for trampers. An assortment of ferries, yachts, launches and on demand water taxis are also available.
There is a five hour walk around the island, plus a series of shorter tracks. The Zane Grey resort at Otehei contains a bar, café and limited provisions. Previously accommodation was available, however the cottages, huts and backpackers have not been maintained and have fallen into disrepair. So, if you plan on staying you need to bring your tent and gear. It is only a 20 minute walk from Otehei Bay to the campsites. Dolphins can often be seen frolicking in the beautiful crystal clear waters and on our last visit we were lucky enough to have a close encounter with a small pod of orca, one of which swum directly underneath our kayaks.
Back on the mainland, make time to look around Russell, a charming, tranquil village on the water's edge with cafes, bars and restaurants dotted along the promenade. At one time a prosperous, busy and lively whaling port, there are many interesting old buildings. Built in 1835 Christ Church is the oldest church in NZ, while the historic Pompallier House built in 1841 is open to the public as a museum.
With so much natural beauty and a multitude of recreational activities the Bay of Islands is a magnet for tourists and kiwis alike.


Pogies. When the weather gets chilly over the winter months, or you're paddling in the deep south when it can be cold at any time of the year, quality neoprene pogies will keep your hands toasty warm and dry. Velcro the pogies around the paddle shaft then simply slip your hands through to grip your paddle. The wide wrist opening makes it easy to get your hands in or out quickly.


When camping with access to the car, this 3 burner gas cooker is perfect. It even has a rack for cooking toast and the lid acts as a wind shield. The legs unscrew and it folds up into a tidy, compact unit. We have been using this cooker for over 20 years, so a pretty good investment. New models will no doubt have been modified and improved, but we have never had any issues with this one.


really basic, but don't buy two the same size and check that they fit inside each other to save space in your pack. Stainless steel, bullet proof coffee plungers, are a bonus when space is not an issue.


When bigger fold out chairs are not an option due to space or weight, but you don't fancy sitting on the ground all the time, these little beauties are just what you need. They take very little space and when kayaking fit up the pointy nose end especially well. We have had ours for quite a few years and have used them on frequent trips, so I can personally recommmend these Roamer Tri Stools. Available from Kathmandu, you can often pick them up for less than $20. Check them out
At some locations in NZ at certain times of the year, and certain times of the day (especially in Fiordland) sandflies or mosquito's can be a nuisance.



Air mattresses: Double and single styles available, perfect if you are camping close to your vehicle when weight and size not an issue. Lengthwise 185cm is a snug fit in our tent, however many of the new ones are 200 – 215 cm and will not fit in some compact dome tents. Many are also double the height, suitable only for large tents.
Stackable plastic cubes are fantastic to keep all related items together and the car stays nice & tidy. We can fit twelve boxes and access from back and rear doors means you only ever need to move one box to reach what you want.