Milford Sound
Considered by many the 8th Wonder of the World, a visit to Milford Sound an area of outstanding natural beauty deserves to be on everyone's "must do" list.
A cruise on Milford Sound is one of the best ways to view this majestic fiord, surrounded by bush clad hills, snow-capped mountain ranges and impressive waterfalls in every direction cascading down sheer cliffs. The iconic Mitre peak, rising dramatically out of the depths climbing skywards almost vertically to a height of 1683m, must be one of the most photographed natural attractions in NZ.
It is one of the wettest regions in NZ, but don't be disappointed if it's raining as the number of waterfalls multiply, creating an impressive spectacle as they plummet down sheer cliff faces.
Most visitors travel from Queenstown (an 8hr return journey by road) making for a long 12 – 14 hour day including a cruise and stops at local attractions along the way. Even from Te Anau you are faced with 4 hours of travelling time, so with the cruise and stops still a full day. Some packages incorporate a flight from Milford on the return journey reducing the travelling time, or you can fly both ways, however I would recommend you experience at least one leg travelling along one of NZ's most beautiful and extraordinary highways.
With visitor numbers around 600,000 each year, during the peak season there's an endless procession of tour buses from Queenstown and Te Anau and the visitor centre where the cruises depart resembles a busy airport terminal. Nevertheless, a fantastic experience.The peak season is Oct – April. Over the cooler winter months May – October there is less traffic, but the road conditions can be hazardous with snow, ice, rock falls and slips, so extra care is required on the narrow, winding road.
Top Tip: Most people only visit this region once in their lifetime, so to avoid the congestion, I strongly recommend you consider an overnight cruise on Milford Sound. During the day, many tour operators offer boat cruises of varying lengths; but come 4pm most tie up for the day. Only the Milford Wanderer and Milford Mariner are licenced to operate overnight trips. Departing around 4.30pm you cruise around the fiord, then anchor overnight in a sheltered bay. Before dinner, you can take to the water in kayaks and small boats they carry onboard, or just relax and marvel at the fantastic views in this majestic location. In the morning, you cruise the length of the fiord out to the Tasman Sea and back.
Get up close to the spectacular Bowen and Stirling Falls (without waiting for your turn as happens during the day) and enjoy the solitude, peace and tranquillity in this pristine, remote wilderness area, arriving back at the terminal around 9.15am. A truly memorable experience and when you factor in one night's accommodation dinner and breakfast, it's a pretty attractive package.
Along the scenic road to Milford there are many places of interest and beauty as well as short walks -another reason not to hurry this journey. Allow time to stop and explore Mirror Lakes, Knobs Flat, The Chasm, The Homer Tunnel (1.2kms) and catch a slice of history at Gunn's Flat.
The Key Summit Track (3 hours return) is one of the best short walks in the area with panoramic views over Mount Humboldt and the Darran Mountains. An alpine nature walk at the summit, complete with information sheets, takes you through native bush, beech forest, sub alpine plants, mountain tarns and bogs - an area rich with birdlife. The track starts at The Divide, on the road to Milford Sound, and is a steady uphill trek initially following the Routeburn Track before veering off to the Key Summit. While it gets the heart rate up, the track is well formed and the terrain is not difficult, so should be manageable for anyone with a reasonable level of fitness and is suitable for families. Another reason not to rush your visit to this region.
Kayaking on Milford Sound is an amazing experience, the sheer grandeur, size and scale of the vertical cliff faces, waterfalls and mountain ranges is magnified when you are sitting at water level. We paddled independently in our own kayaks, however there are several guided kayak tour operators.
Accommodation: There are limited options at Milford Sound so you need to book well in advance. Milford Sound Lodge just 5 mins from the Visitor Centre where boat cruises depart, have exclusive Riverside and Mountain View Chalets, plus cabins and a backpacker's hostel. An excellent choice if you want to kayak, as you can be on the water early when it's usually calm and flat.
A little further away, Knobs Flat on the Milford Road and Gunn's Camp off a side road to the Hollyford Valley, offer cabins, studio units, backpackers accommodation, tent sites, powered sites and space for campervans. Otherwise nearest accommodation is Te Anau.
Don't forget to pack insect repellent. Sandflies don't usually bother you when out on the water, but can be a real nuisance on land. And be sure to top up with fuel at Te Anau, as there are no other options along the way.
For overnight cruises click HERE
Milford Sound Lodge click HERE


Pogies. When the weather gets chilly over the winter months, or you're paddling in the deep south when it can be cold at any time of the year, quality neoprene pogies will keep your hands toasty warm and dry. Velcro the pogies around the paddle shaft then simply slip your hands through to grip your paddle. The wide wrist opening makes it easy to get your hands in or out quickly.


When camping with access to the car, this 3 burner gas cooker is perfect. It even has a rack for cooking toast and the lid acts as a wind shield. The legs unscrew and it folds up into a tidy, compact unit. We have been using this cooker for over 20 years, so a pretty good investment. New models will no doubt have been modified and improved, but we have never had any issues with this one.


really basic, but don't buy two the same size and check that they fit inside each other to save space in your pack. Stainless steel, bullet proof coffee plungers, are a bonus when space is not an issue.


When bigger fold out chairs are not an option due to space or weight, but you don't fancy sitting on the ground all the time, these little beauties are just what you need. They take very little space and when kayaking fit up the pointy nose end especially well. We have had ours for quite a few years and have used them on frequent trips, so I can personally recommmend these Roamer Tri Stools. Available from Kathmandu, you can often pick them up for less than $20. Check them out
At some locations in NZ at certain times of the year, and certain times of the day (especially in Fiordland) sandflies or mosquito's can be a nuisance.



Air mattresses: Double and single styles available, perfect if you are camping close to your vehicle when weight and size not an issue. Lengthwise 185cm is a snug fit in our tent, however many of the new ones are 200 – 215 cm and will not fit in some compact dome tents. Many are also double the height, suitable only for large tents.
Stackable plastic cubes are fantastic to keep all related items together and the car stays nice & tidy. We can fit twelve boxes and access from back and rear doors means you only ever need to move one box to reach what you want.