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Pouakai Circuit
It is surprising how few people know about this amazing circuit; a fabulous 25km track which sidles around the base of Mt Taranaki before veering off. As you complete the circuit the views of Mount Taranaki, alpine tussock and the unique Ahukawakawa swamplands are magnificent. Alternatively the section from Pouakai Hut to Egmont Visitor Centre (the most spectacular section) is being promoted as a worthy alternative to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing which has become so popular it is often congested and overcrowded.
With two back country huts along the circuit you can complete the loop over a relatively relaxed two nights, three days, (or two longer days if you prefer). The track can be walked in either direction, depends whether you prefer to do the big day first, when you are full of energy and enthusiasm, or on the last day when your pack is lighter having devoured two days' worth of food.
On arrival at the North Egmont visitor centre, we spent the night in the Historic Camp House, one of the oldest surviving corrugated-iron buildings in the world. It was part of the military barracks designed and built in Melbourne, dismantled and shipped to NZ for use by troops in New Plymouth during the Taranaki land wars of the 1860's and was moved to North Egmont in 1891 for tourist accommodation. The hand-wrought iron sheets are several millimetres thick and gun slits are still visible. The Camphouse has been divided into 4 bunk rooms, although we had the luxury of having the place to ourselves.
North Egmont Visitor Centre / Camphouse to Holly Hut, 3 – 4 hours, 7.5km. After noting our route in the intentions book, we set off the next morning for Holly Hut. The well-formed track climbs steadily through trees, scrub, ferns, bush and sub alpine plants. You pass under the lofty Dieffenbach Cliffs and along the face of Boomerang Slip, the site of huge erosion which is a little un-nerving, so we walked this section quite smartly. On the descent to Holly Hut you look over river gorges, the Ahukawakawa wetlands and the upper slopes of Mount Taranaki. From the 32 bunk bed Holly Hut, a 30 minute one way side trip takes you to Bells Falls, which I understand are very impressive, however I'm not great scrambling over rocks and difficult terrain so we gave this a miss.
Holly Hut to Pouakai Hut, 2 – 3 hours, 4.5km. On leaving the hut you reach the Ahukawakawa Swamp, a unique and fragile wetland area formed around 3500 years ago. It has its own micro-climate with plants that have adapted to suit the altitude and conditions: sedges, sphagnum moss, herbs, tussock, small orchids and alpine flowers. Boardwalks over much of this section protect the delicate plant life; once through the swamp a steep climb up the ridge leads to the 16 bed Pouakai Hut.
The Mangorei Track, leading down the valley from this hut, provides an escape route from the circuit in heavy rain or adverse weather conditions (approx 2 hours to road end). It is also the start or end-point for those doing a day crossing, in which case you need to organise transport.
You can extend this shorter day with a detour up to the Pouakai Trig (1½ hours return) – but we didn't! We were quite happy to have a cruisey day, play cards and read.
Pouakai Hut to North Egmont Visitor Centre, 5 - 7 hours, 13 km. A short distance from the hut you arrive at the famous Pouakai mountain tarns (small lakes) where the reflection of Mount Taranaki is perfectly mirrored in the water. Surely one of NZ's most recognised photo's which has graced the cover of Lonely Planet Travel Guides and countless magazines.
Fortunately, the weather was clear so after stopping for the obligatory picture perfect photo, we continued through open tussock, sidling around Maude Peak before the daunting climb up to Henry Peak via a steep series of wooden ladders.The reward is worth the effort, with stunning views of the swamplands, the coastline and Mount Taranaki.
The section of the track from here is probably the most rugged of the circuit, up and down some steep and often muddy gullies and after bouts of heavy rain prone to rapidly rising rivers. Unbridged streams can flood at any time of the year and can quickly become impassable, so take care. Never put yourself at risk; be prudent and wait for the water to subside to a safe level before crossing.
On the final stretch, you can take the shorter route via the Kaiauai Carpark and walk up Egmont Road, (which we did) or go for the longer but undoubtedly more scenic option up the Ram Track, back to the visitor centre.
After a longish day, we were happy to spend another night in the Camphouse, reflecting on an awesome three day experience.
Summary:
This circuit is rated as an advanced tramping track, suitable for people with moderate to high level backcountry experience, with navigation, map reading and survival skills. However, while it is challenging in places, over the warmer months this is a well formed, well-marked track. Main rivers and most streams are bridged apart from some of the smaller ones.
We have considerable tramping experience accumulated over many years, yet I am quite slow and lack the agility to tackle difficult tracks. With the aid of walking poles, and a few anti-inflammatories, I managed this track just fine. If you are fit, can tackle rough and muddy ground, negotiate tree roots and embedded rocks, can handle moderately steep climbs and descents, and have the stamina to knuckle down and keep going should the weather deteriorate, then you should be ok on this track. It is a unique environment and is quite different from any other track in NZ. It is being promoted as an alternative to take the pressure off the more well-known Tongariro Crossing.
The weather conditions anywhere in New Zealand can change quickly, but in this region, it can change rapidly as adverse weather blasts in from the sea. The day can alternate from sunny and warm, to extreme cold, strong winds and poor visibility. So, ensure you are well prepared for all conditions.
The DoC website outlines the essential gear that you need for a multi-day walk like this. Always check condition with DoC before setting out, and don't attempt this walk over the colder winter months when snow and icy conditions prevail.
Back Country Huts have woodburners, toilets, water, bunks and mattresses. Bookings not required - first come, first served. Huts passes need to be pre-purchased from DoC. Before you go, tell someone your plans and leave a date to raise the alarm if you haven't returned.
Visit DoC (Department of Conservation) site HERE
Pogies. When the weather gets chilly over the winter months, or you're paddling in the deep south when it can be cold at any time of the year, quality neoprene pogies will keep your hands toasty warm and dry. Velcro the pogies around the paddle shaft then simply slip your hands through to grip your paddle. The wide wrist opening makes it easy to get your hands in or out quickly.
When camping with access to the car, this 3 burner gas cooker is perfect. It even has a rack for cooking toast and the lid acts as a wind shield. The legs unscrew and it folds up into a tidy, compact unit. We have been using this cooker for over 20 years, so a pretty good investment. New models will no doubt have been modified and improved, but we have never had any issues with this one.
really basic, but don't buy two the same size and check that they fit inside each other to save space in your pack. Stainless steel, bullet proof coffee plungers, are a bonus when space is not an issue.
When bigger fold out chairs are not an option due to space or weight, but you don't fancy sitting on the ground all the time, these little beauties are just what you need. They take very little space and when kayaking fit up the pointy nose end especially well. We have had ours for quite a few years and have used them on frequent trips, so I can personally recommmend these Roamer Tri Stools. Available from Kathmandu, you can often pick them up for less than $20. Check them out 
At some locations in NZ at certain times of the year, and certain times of the day (especially in Fiordland) sandflies or mosquito's can be a nuisance.
Air mattresses: Double and single styles available, perfect if you are camping close to your vehicle when weight and size not an issue. Lengthwise 185cm is a snug fit in our tent, however many of the new ones are 200 – 215 cm and will not fit in some compact dome tents. Many are also double the height, suitable only for large tents.
Stackable plastic cubes are fantastic to keep all related items together and the car stays nice & tidy. We can fit twelve boxes and access from back and rear doors means you only ever need to move one box to reach what you want.