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TARANAKI

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Taranaki

Taranaki (Maori)

Recently named as one of the world's top regions, Taranaki has a lot to offer.

The iconic perfectly shaped Mount Taranaki sits proud and tall in the middle of a spectacular national Park, offering a network of tramps, scenic walks, hikes and mountain tracks.

The region contains some of NZ's most impressive gardens located in magnificent, expansive grounds. Lush green farmland, the spectacular surf highway, coastal villages, pristine uncrowded beaches.

The region is home to historical areas of significance, and is well known for its prolific and vibrant arts and crafts culture, galleries and museums. Pouakai Crossing – a fantastic day walk is a great alternative to the bustling Tongariro Crossing, while the Pouakai circuit is an awesome 2 – 3 day adventure.

Just go to Taranaki.

  Terrific Taranaki

, ,   Terrific Taranaki

Recently named second best region in the world by travel guide Lonely Planet, after a brief visit, it's easy to see why Taranaki is so highly rated.

First stop was the little town of Mokau for whitebait fritters to get into the holiday spirit. Arriving in New Plymouth to clear blue skies we jumped on our bikes to ride the 13km Coastal Path along the foreshore from the Port to Bellblock. It's wide enough to accommodate cyclists, runners, walkers, wheelchairs, scooters, skateboards and rollerblades, all whizzing along below the distinctive 45m Len Lye Wind Wand sculpture.

Towards the northern end of the path, Te Rewa Rewa Bridge, which is designed to resemble a breaking wave or whale skeleton, is a truly impressive landmark. Another bonus was the cycle park near Bellblock and the outdoor velodrome – I've always wanted to have a go so did a few laps, albeit very cautiously. The park also contains junior off-road courses with traffic lights, intersections and stop signs, replicating road conditions to teach bike and road safety.

Normally more restrained when it comes to accommodation, our wedding anniversary was a good excuse to go more upmarket and we stayed three nights in the gorgeous Ahu Ahu Villas, set on farmland 20 minutes south of New Plymouth. Built in French provincial style these award-winning, self-contained villas are situated on a headland with spectacular coastal views and easy beach access. A strategically placed seat is a great spot to relax at the end of the day with a glass of wine to watch the sunset. For a more affordable option, Oakura Beach Holiday Park offers camping sites and cabins right on the beachfront.

Having visited the bowl of Brooklands and Pukekura Park on previous visits, Pukeiti and Tupare Gardens were on our 'must see' list. Pukeiti, New Zealand's premier Rhododendron garden, is set in a magnificent rain forest on the lower slopes of Mt Taranaki. Spread over a whopping 63 hectares there are three marked trails and numerous tracks to explore in this garden of national significance.

Tupare Gardens features majestic trees, landscaped gardens, extensive plantings, drifts of bluebells and a homestead designed by prominent New Zealand architect Chapman Taylor. The Gardener's cottage contains information and photos providing a glimpse into the life of the original owners and their grand property. Down by the river, an expansive grassy area with an abundance of shade trees is a perfect spot to picnic on hot summer days. Entry to both gardens is free.

A drizzly day presented an opportunity to see the sights in New Plymouth, starting at the Len Lye Centre – a stunning contemporary building showcasing Len Lye's filmmaking exploits and kinetic sculptures – and the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery. Adjacent to the waterfront, award-winning complex Puke Ariki houses an integrated museum, visitor centre and library, and is a popular attraction. The city centre is interesting and vibrant with a host of galleries, museums, gift shops and cafés.

However, Mount Taranaki was beckoning so we left the city via the surf highway and continued around the coast to Opunaki, with a quick detour to the Historic Cape Egmont Lighthouse, erected in 1881. Heading inland, Mount Taranaki rises up from lush green pasture, a stunning sight. From the information office at Dawson Falls Carpark, tracks and trails cater for all levels of fitness and ability.

Wilkies Pools Loop Track is an easy walk of 1-1½ hours. The track meanders through the Goblin Forest dripping with moss and lichen, with glimpses of the mountain visible through the bush canopy, to a series of cascading pools scoured out over thousands of years. The wheelchair-friendly side of the loop was closed for maintenance so we returned the same way, crossing a small unbridged stream. Neither wide, fast flowing, deep nor difficult, negotiating wet slippery rocks can still be tricky. No longer young and agile, my days of rock hopping are a distant memory, so with dicky knees, poor balance and being risk averse, I tentatively picked out the safest route, aided by walking poles. Apparently I was closely observed by a spectator with wet trousers – an indication she hadn't fared quite so well.

After a picnic lunch, we walked to Dawson Falls, which is an easy short walk from the car park and one of the most visited attractions in the Egmont National Park. Next on my list was the York Road Loop Track, a three-hour walk on the eastern side of the mountain. With rain forecast the next day we raced to the start point and, keen to finish the track in daylight, set off at a brisk pace. The track follows a railway formed in 1901 to service a quarry, and is deserving of a more leisurely pace. The walk is well signposted with information boards at historical sites, and has remnants of equipment and machinery visible along the way. We skirted around a few fallen trees, but generally the track was well formed and easy going with board walks over the boggy bits.

Home for the next few nights the nearby Stratford Mountain Lodge was the perfect spot to end a busy day. The lounges were spacious, comfortable, warm and welcoming with blazing fires adding to the ambience. Dinner was delicious and capped off a splendid day.

Waking to rain, we headed into Stratford, where New Zealand's largest Glockenspiel clock performs a little cameo of Romeo and Juliet. Not far away, the cheese shop in Eltham was a great place to stock up on specialty cheeses at bargain prices.

Tawhiti Museum, on the outskirts of Hawera and rated as one of the best private museums in the country, has life-sized exhibits and realistic scale models. What started as a hobby has morphed over 40 years into an impressive facility depicting local history. The displays and models are built on the premises with moulds cast from friends, relatives and locals. The 'Traders and Whalers' exhibition is the latest addition to the museum. In small boats you drift along a nautically themed journey replicating an 1820's experience. With an onsite café you can easily spend a good portion of the day at this top-class attraction.

The four-hectare Hollard Gardens was our last stop. With expansive lawns, swamp gardens, pretty borders and a huge range of plants, it's a picturesque location and family friendly, with children's play areas, and stilts and quoits in the little pavilion for anyone willing to give them a go.

Heading home we ended our journey as it had begun with whitebait fritters. Taranaki, I'll be back soon.

Ahu Ahu Beach Villas HERE   Stratford Mountain House HERE  Tawhiti Museum HERE

Article Published: Focus Magazine


- Article 3 of 4 -

Regions

Gear and Useful Tips

If you have camping and outdoor experience, skip this section. However, if you're a newbie, here are some tips and hints about equipment and clothing that might be helpful - especially for overseas visitors unfamiliar with our conditions and changeable climate. At the risk of stating the obvious, here goes:

There's nothing worse than being wet and cold, so waterproof overpants are essential and take very little space. I always pack them, even in the warmer months. Mine weren't expensive to start with and have lasted nearly 20 years. Some brands  only have short zips at the bottom of the leg, however I recommend you buy a pair that zip almost up to the knee as they are much easier to put on over tramping boots, especially if they are muddy.   

I can't stand powdered milk, so on adventures I always take UHT Long Life milk, even when weight and space is an issue  Muesli, fruit (fresh or those little pottles) and milk is not only tasty but provides great sustenance when tramping and kayaking, so it's not negotiable for me.  A 250ml carton  is enough for 2 x breakfasts and our morning cup of tea. We can survive the rest of the day without milk, so I just pack one for each morning (into my husband's pack of course).  

Tip: On one occasion, I used surplus Long life milk to make up a thermos of coffee. However, the milk separated and the result was a curdled mess. Not  recommended. 

  1. Underestimating the weather conditions, failure to apppreciate how quickly it can change and an unwillngness to amend plans accordingly.
  2. Not being equipped or having a plan to deal with unexpected situations: getting lost, mishaps, accidents or emergencies. 

Sleeping Bags.  Firstly you need to think about what conditions you expect to face. Most people won't need an alpine bag, but I would suggest buying the next best you can afford, as there is nothing worse than being cold. In warmer weather you can just open them up. My sleeping bag is 90% goose down and 10% feather, 800gsm and I have found it excellent.

The ones that taper in at the bottom are probably the warmest being the most effective to trap warm air, however I am quite a restless sleeper and would find the extremely tapered ones too restrictive. Mine narrows, but not hugely. For the same reason I don't like the ones that draw in right around your face. The back of mine is longer and has a warm trim without wrapping around your face. I prefer to wear a woollen or merino beanie if it's really cold.

Using a sleeping bag liner (when you are dirty or sweaty, and can't shower), helps preserve and extend the life of your sleeping bag. Looked after a sleeping bag will last an extremely long time, so it's worth investing in a good one that will meet your needs. (Silk liners compress into a wee bag about the size of your fist.)

I would also suggest buying a dri-bag to put your sleeping bag in. Get one only slightly larger than your compressed sleeping bag. Very useful if you are setting up or dismantling camp in the rain as you certainly don't want to get a down / feather bag wet.

Chilli Burners. Over summer months these beauties are essential  to protect your hands from our harsh sun. Made from light neoprene, they are comfy, cool and the most effective way to protect the back of your hands from sunburn, whilst enabling the palm of your hands to remain in contact with your paddle. 

Pogies. When the weather gets chilly over the winter months, or you're paddling in the deep south when it can be cold at any time of the year, quality neoprene pogies will keep your hands toasty warm and dry. Velcro the pogies around the paddle shaft then simply slip your hands through to grip your paddle.  The wide wrist opening makes it easy to get your hands in or out quickly.

For supplier Click HERE

Warm showers are possible even in the most remote location or the most basic camping site with these little beauties. Some DoC camps have cubicles where you can hang them up, otherwise string up in the nearest tree. Outdoor stores stock biodegradable multi-purpose wash that can be used for hair, body, clothes and dishes. A 20 litre solar shower will do two decent showers. And they take very little space when not in use.

When space and weight are issues, you can get some pretty compact units. Look for a cooker and gas lantern that use the same cannisters. These items can be expensive, but we have been using ours for nearly 20 years.

A collapsible wind shield is very useful when cooking and a model where where the gas cannister lies on the ground when connected gives extra stability, as opposed to the upight units which can easily tip.

Compact gas lanterns can stand on flat ground, or hang from a branch. 

  

When camping with access to the car, this 3 burner gas cooker is perfect. It even has a rack for cooking toast and the lid acts as a wind shield.  The legs unscrew and it folds up into a tidy, compact unit. We have been using this cooker for over 20 years, so a pretty good investment. New models will no doubt have been modified and improved, but we have never had any issues with this one.

This gas lantern throws out great light and fits onto the same gas bottle.

Look for a flat bottom stainless steel cereal bowl and use for breakfast, lunch & dinner. The flat bottom allows you to use like a plate when making up sandwiches, wraps, or salads. Ours are still good after15 years, and we have yet to see anything better.

A flat bottom plastic bowl is ideal for washing up. Don't get anything too big as you have to heat up too much water. 28cm x 34cm x 10cm high is perfect.

A wine goblet, soup mug or coffee cup; take your pick.  You just  need to decide in what order.  It might seem really basic, but don't buy two the same size and check that they fit inside each other to save space in your pack. Stainless steel, bullet proof coffee plungers, are a bonus when space is not an issue.

Here's my list. I print off, cross off items we won't need, then tick off stuff as we add to the pile. 

Camping and Tramping

Tent
Sleeping mats
Sleeping Bags & liners
Pillows Tramping / Normal
Lights & torches
Small Radio & Batteries
Cooker, and gas cannisters, gas bottles
Pots & Frying pan
Knife, fork, spoon, tsp
Can opener
Mug, plate & bowl
Sharp knife
Personal locator beacon
Mosquito net & head nets
Small brush & shovel
Bowl, fish slice, tongs
Snaplock bags, L, M & S
Small plastic containers
Walking poles
Tramping packs
Tramping Boots
Large plastic bags for wet or dirty gear & for rubbish

Camping and Tramping Cont.

Duct Tape
Binoculars
Picnic Blanket
Small Tarpaulin
Coffee Plunger
Fold up spade
Fly spray
Insect Repellent
Thermos
Chopping Board
Candles / Fire starter
Waterproof matches
Drink bottles
Gladwrap
Tinfoil
Paper towel roll
Mallet
Washing up bowl
Gas lanterns
Day Packs
Spare boot laces
Repair kit for air mattresses

Camping and Tramping Cont.

Pack cards & games
Books, kindle
Maps
Sunscreen
Waterproof camera
Towels & tea towels
Chux cloths
Detergent
Pot scourer & brush
First Aid Kit
Reading glasses
Sun glasses
Phones & chargers
Pegs
Toilet Paper
Twistie ties
Rubber bands
Hanky pack tissues
Mesh bags to hang fruit

Kayaking

Paddle leash
Paddle jacket / raincoat
Paddle float
Split paddle
Throw bag
Tow line
Neoprene booties
Dri Bags
Kayaks & Paddles
Spray Skirt
Life jackets
Pogies
Flares
Carabiner
Bailer & Pump
Neoprene Shorts
Waterproof lights
Whistle

Create a Masterlist for Hassle Free Packing - Trish's top tip.

There is no question that you require a lot of gear when camping. If during the same holiday you intend to go tramping and kayaking the pile of stuff grows significantly. 

Years ago, I created a masterlist and have added to it as more specialist equipment has become available, and as we get a little older, we've moved from the basic no-frills style camping to wanting a little more comfort.

In today's busy lifestyle, time is something we don't have a lot of, so thowing stuff together at the end of the working week can be a pretty daunting prospect.

Printing off a list and ticking stuff off as you add to the pile, makes the whole packing process much easier, reduces stress levels, and can avoids arguments - especially if something essential is overlooked. Okay if you're camping near town, but not so great when you are in an isolated area hours from civilisation and the nearest shop.

So make a list, save it to your computer, add to it as you accumulate more gear, and print off next time you're packing - easy!  

The type of equipment and level of home comforts will vary, depending on whether you have access to your car when camping, or whether you are restricted by what you can carry in a pack, or fit in a kayak.

My list is now pretty comprehensive. I'm happy to share if it's helpful, you can simply tailor it to suit your needs. Flick me an Email                                    Happy Camping - Just Go. 

Forget normal bath or beach towels when you head into the outdoors as they are bulky and take ages to dry. Microfibre towels (on left) come in a variety of sizes, take less room and most importantly dry really quickly. However it's best to only use them to dry off after a swim or shower; don't sit on them as dry grass and twigs stick to the fabric. I would also avoid buying red ones, as the colour continues to leach out when washing, even after multiple washes. I haven't experienced this issue with any other colour.

When space is really limited we have even been known to use large chux multi cloths (available at any supermarket) to dry off. 

When bigger fold out chairs are not an option due to space or weight,  but you don't  fancy sitting on the ground all the time, these little beauties are just what you need. They take very little space and when kayaking fit up the pointy nose end especially well. We have had ours for quite a few years and have used them on frequent trips, so I can personally recommmend these Roamer Tri Stools. Available  from Kathmandu, you can often pick them up for less than $20. Check them out  HERE 


At some locations in NZ at certain times of the year, and certain times of the day (especially in Fiordland) sandflies or mosquito's can be a nuisance.

Insect shelters are a great solution when eating or reading and you don't want to be confined to your tent. They are light and compact when not in use.

Head nets. Constantly waving your hands in front of your face to ward off sandflies (the Milford Wave as its known in Fiordland) can be effective but is not especially helpful when you need both hands free to set up camp.

While far from glamorous, these head nets are very effective and stop pesky sandflies buzzing around your face. Available at outdoors stores for around $10 they are a great investment if you're heading to Milford Sound, spending time in the deep south or on the West Coast.. 

In NZ you need a sturdy tent capable of withstanding strong winds and heavy rain as our climate, even in summer, can be changeable and unpredictable. The expensive alpine range is for the specialists; the cheap, flimsy tents are for the kids in the backyard; mid-range suitable for most conditions. (Keep an eye on the sales when you can often pick up a great deal.) Specifications by the manufacturers are a guide only, so be sure to check the ease of putting up; height; weight; and dimensions (erected and when packed); ventilation; insect screens; inbuilt groundsheet; vestibule areas; and access points before you commit. Beware, some tents are too short, requiring you to sleep crosswise, which is not ideal.

When the car is close by, or when rafting, the Coleman Lakeside is perfect for two people, with plenty of room inside for air mattress and clothing, a large front vestibule with built-in ground sheet for stashing all your gear, front and side entries, insect nets and great ventilation.

For tramping and kayaking when space and weight are issues, opt for a more compact tent.

        

An electric air pump makes easy work of blowing up your air mattress. Plug into the cigarette lighter socket, or socket in front consul or rear compartment,  and hey presto you have a fully inflated mattress in minutes. Don't over-inflate, a rock hard mattress is not comfortable. In the past we have struggled to fit a fullly inflated mattress into the front opening of a small tent, however we recently discovered this effortless method.

Air mattresses: Double and single styles available, perfect if you are camping close to your vehicle when weight and size not an issue. Lengthwise 185cm is a snug fit in our tent, however many of the new ones are 200 – 215 cm and will not fit in some compact dome tents. Many are also double the height, suitable only for large tents.

Sleeping mats: Thermarest are known for a quality product, however they are very expensive and you pay a heavy price for the brand.  There are plenty of cheaper alternatives which do the job just fine.  Great improvements have been made over the years and you can now buy longer,  thicker mats which surprisingly are more compact when rolled up. Our older style 3/4 length sleeping mat on the right, barely 2 cm thick, has now been discarded for a full length EXPED Airmat that is 7.5cm thick, it provides a much more comfortable sleep and comes with a nifty 'schnozzle' inflation bag. 

Sleeping bags: There's nothing worse than being cold, so choose one suitable for the coldest conditions you expect to encounter.

Sleeping bag liners. For multi-day trips when  showers are not an option. They fit into a little bag about the size of your fist and you simply chuck in the washing machine at the end of the trip. They help preserve and extend the life of your sleeping bag. 

Stackable plastic cubes are fantastic to keep all related items together and the car stays nice & tidy. We can fit twelve boxes and access from back and rear doors means you only ever need to move one box to reach what you want.

The boxes sit neatly on top of one another, with the weight supported by the rim, so nothing in the boxes gets squashed. See-through boxes are even better. They are not square, so fit together using less space when not in use.