Heaphy Track, Kahurangi National Park
The Heaphy Track offers the most diverse scenery of all the Great Walks. It can be walked in either direction, however most people start at the Collingwood end. The track is well formed and all major rivers and streams are bridged. It is intermediate level, and while the first day from Brown's hut is all up hill, it is a gradual incline with nothing too steep or strenuous.
Starting on the east coast, the track winds through beech forests, native bush, ferns, and lush goblin-like sections with gnarly twisted trees dripping with moss and lichen. The top section, Gouland Downs, is mostly flat with expansive open areas of tussock and river beds. As you reach the west coast there are fabulous views over the Tasman Sea and the Heaphy river mouth.
The terrain changes markedly as you gradually descend towards the Heaphy and Lewis Rivers. At 148 metres long, the bridge over the Heaphy River is a sight to behold, the longest suspension bridge built by DoC.
On the last section, you walk through forests of Rimu, Rata and Kahikatea, while dense groupings of nikau palms add a decidedly subtropical feel. Huge seas and breaking waves make a spectacular finale as the track hugs the rugged west coast.
While this is the longest of the Great Walks at 80kms, it is an excellent choice for your first multi-day tramp. At first glance this might seem like an oxymoron, however with 7 huts along the way, you can break up the tramp into manageable sections, so it's perfect for first timers and families who want to take their time.
Most trampers complete the walk in 3 – 5 days, however being our first multi-day trip, I needed to see how my dodgy knee would cope. So we elected to spread the walk over 6 days, allowing plenty of time to explore and soak up the experience. On most of NZ's Great Walks, the huts are further apart, and on the Milford and Routeburn the walk must be completed over the number of days specified, so taking additional days is not an option.
To increase your enjoyment, ensure you are well prepared, have an appropriate level of fitness and have comfortable, good fitting boots. Whether it's due to the steady uphill trek on the first day placing consistent pressure on the same part of your foot, (if starting at Collingwood end) or that packs are heavier with food for more days than usual, this walk has a reputation for causing blisters. I have seen distressed trampers trying to patch up heels with blisters the size of apples! Seams and joins can cause problems on a long tramp, so it's worth investing in good footwear and socks.
The Last Resort at Karamea offers a range of accommodation to satisfy all budgets, and with a licensed restaurant, cafe and bar is the perfect spot to rest, recover and reminisce after your adventure. Phone from the track end for a pick-up.
The start and end of the Heaphy track by road is roughly 435kms, approx 6½ hours, so you need to organise transport. Another option is to fly. The huts on the track are basic and easy on the budget, so to avoid the long drive, we flew back to Takaha - the aerial view providing a unique perspective of the terrain we had just walked. Car relocations are also an option.
Full details on Heaphy Track HERE
The Last Resort HERE
Flights with Golden Bay air HERE


Pogies. When the weather gets chilly over the winter months, or you're paddling in the deep south when it can be cold at any time of the year, quality neoprene pogies will keep your hands toasty warm and dry. Velcro the pogies around the paddle shaft then simply slip your hands through to grip your paddle. The wide wrist opening makes it easy to get your hands in or out quickly.


When camping with access to the car, this 3 burner gas cooker is perfect. It even has a rack for cooking toast and the lid acts as a wind shield. The legs unscrew and it folds up into a tidy, compact unit. We have been using this cooker for over 20 years, so a pretty good investment. New models will no doubt have been modified and improved, but we have never had any issues with this one.


really basic, but don't buy two the same size and check that they fit inside each other to save space in your pack. Stainless steel, bullet proof coffee plungers, are a bonus when space is not an issue.


When bigger fold out chairs are not an option due to space or weight, but you don't fancy sitting on the ground all the time, these little beauties are just what you need. They take very little space and when kayaking fit up the pointy nose end especially well. We have had ours for quite a few years and have used them on frequent trips, so I can personally recommmend these Roamer Tri Stools. Available from Kathmandu, you can often pick them up for less than $20. Check them out
At some locations in NZ at certain times of the year, and certain times of the day (especially in Fiordland) sandflies or mosquito's can be a nuisance.



Air mattresses: Double and single styles available, perfect if you are camping close to your vehicle when weight and size not an issue. Lengthwise 185cm is a snug fit in our tent, however many of the new ones are 200 – 215 cm and will not fit in some compact dome tents. Many are also double the height, suitable only for large tents.
Stackable plastic cubes are fantastic to keep all related items together and the car stays nice & tidy. We can fit twelve boxes and access from back and rear doors means you only ever need to move one box to reach what you want.